Framing a Subject Answer questions!

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I think I do have sort of a strong composition but not really I think I need more calibration on editing my photos I didn’t edit much but I know I could have done better. What I would have done differently if I shot this image again or even a different one would be get a better angle of the subject and get shade and more light to make it come out better probably even blur the background. I don’t think these should go on the blogpost because I did not put much effort as others and I’m not trying to bring anyone down or nothing it just they probably did a better job than I did but I can do better next time with practice everything makes effort!!

Inspiration Artist!

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Post/File Formats!

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  1. JPEG: what the majority of digital cameras provide as a digital output from a camera.
  2. TIFF: These file formats are usually uncompressed, and as a result offer the opportunity for extensive post-processing. Some cameras offer TIFF as the highest image quality level in camera.
  3. RAW: RAW files are generally available on advanced compact cameras and DSLRs and quite simply put; it is the best option if you want to get the absolute best file from your camera – this is the option preferred by professional photographers. Raw files are compressed using a process that retains all of the information originally captured. This means that adjustments such as white balance, exposure, contrast, saturation, sharpness can all be altered in an image editing software, after the image has been taken.
  4. DNG: is an attempt to create a standard raw file format across all manufacturers and cameras. This is offered as a main raw file format, or as an alternative to the manufacturer’s native raw format. One of the problems with keeping images in their original raw format is that in years to come you may be unable to access them, as they are specific to that camera and manufacturer. But using an Adobe DNG Convertor means you can also store your raw files as DNG files for maximum future security. This does add another step in the post-processing workflow, which means more time is required.
  5. PNG: PNG files are ideal for use on the internet. The strength of PNGs are that they are compressed in a lossless format, and so retain all the digital detail. But unlike other file formats, that quality doesn’t mean big file sizes, which are not useful on the internet where you need pages to be loaded quickly. The other benefit of PNG files are that they allow for partial (effects like drop shadows) or total transparency which is ideal for overlays or logos.
  6. GIF: Like PNGs, GIF files are ideal for use on the internet. Lossless compression means image quality is not sacrificed, and like PNGs they also offer the ability to maintain transparency (but can’t support partial transparency) and also allow for animation. However, the limitation of GIF files are that they can only contain a maximum of 256 colours, and therefore are not the best choice for photos, but rather images with a limited colour palette.
  7. BMP: BMPs are large file sizes as colour data is saved in each individual pixel in the image without any compression. As a result this provides a high quality digital file, which is great for use in print, but not ideal for web usage.
  8. PSD: The big advantage of PSD files are that it allows for manipulation on specific individual layers, rather than on the main image itself. This makes it absolutely essential for any sort of extensive manipulation of the original photograph – such as retouching. This gives far greater flexibility and the ability to fine tune an image as layers can be added, removed or edited at any time without any effect on the original photo (as long as all editing has been done on layers) or other layers. But remember that once a layered PSD file is flattened (this process essentially merges all of the layers) it can’t be undone, so make sure you save your file as a PSD file before flattening.
  9. These are the most common file types used. Professional photographers generally capture in raw format (even if the final file needed is JPEG), convert those files to DNG, then edit in photo editing software such as Photoshop or Lightroom. But as you can see choosing the right file format to capture the original photo and subsequently save it as is imperative.

When you take a photograph, what is essentially happening is that the camera is capturing data, which creates a digital image. There are many different types of file formats, which can be retrieved and edited using a photo editing software. The most commonly used ones are:

JPEG (Joint Photographic Experts Group)TIFF (Tagged Image File Format)RAWDNG (Digital Negative Format)PNG (Portable Network Graphics)GIF (Graphics Interchange Format)BMP (Bitmap)PSD (Photoshop Document)

Choosing the right file format is important, and can be critical depending on the level of quality, and also the level of post-processing you intend to do. Here are the pros and cons of using each different image file format.

Camera Modes?

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  1. So these are very simple things to do when you are using a camera is:
  2. Automatic Mode: is a basic one. Auto tells your camera for the picture settings such as like shutter speed, aperture, ISO, white balance, focus and flash so it can get great shot. Automatic gives you great settings so your pictures come out perfect but sometimes it will guess your settings because it doesn’t know what kind of shot you want.
  3. Portrait Mode: is used to focus on an object or person and that try not focus at all in the background. This is mode is good to photograph a single subject and if you want to get a perfect picture you want to get closer to the subject and add a bit of trigger a bit of light.
  4. Marco Mode: is good to take close up shots such as like flowers or insects and also gives you capabilities of focusing from different differences. Try to keep the object your photographing parallel if not it will not be able to focus.
  5. Landscape Mode: is the opposite of portrait so you mostly want the background to focus. So you basically want to shoot wide scenes and this will slow down your shutter speed so it’s better to buy a tripod so your shot can be still.
  6. Sports Mode: is to freeze the action by increasing the shutter speed so you could get a great shot of the moving person or object. And before anything happens you want to pre focus your camera on where the subject is going to be.
  7. Night Mode: is good to use for when there’s not much light and will set your shutter speed for it to capture more details but your flash will also turn on and will sort just mess up the shot. They also suggest to use a tripod in this because if you don’t use one your background might come out blur.
  8. Movie mode: specifically designed for capturing moving pictures. When recording in movie mode a camera will capture both video and sound to a digital video file stored on the cameras onboard memory.
  9. Aperture priority mode: is this mode  your camera basically you choose all the settings for your camera so what you want you want for picture to come out great is to have balanced exposure. Aperture in this mode is the number 1 thing you need to pay attention to because it controls the depth of field.
  10. Shutter priority mode: is just like the last mode but this time you don’t choose the aperture this time you choose the shutter speed. You would want to use this when your photographing moving objects or person.
  11. Program mode: is just like auto mode but you get to control flash and white balance and a little bit more
  12. There is also Manual Mode: is where you have full control of the camera like all of the settings you get to control it all. You get to choose on which shots you want but the whole point is you just control everything the camera just takes the picture.
  13. These are all modes that can help when shooting a picture or with that being said a “Moment Capture” These are all modes that can help you with camera settings and stuff.

20 Important facts about Camera Lenses:]

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  1. You can use the ranges that give you 180* field of view, to photo lenses up to 800mm or more.
  2. It gives you the Zooms, primes, Macro, Super telephoto, and of course Tilt-Shift lenses as well.
  3. Next is to find out what their budget is the cost of the lens depends on Several things. Less Expensive lenses will generally have variable apertures, meaning as you Zoom, the maximum aperture gets smaller.
  4. Wide angles give a wide expanse view, and when used Correctly, can wrap you in the scene. Landscape work tend to be in the ranges from 14mm f/2.8, and 24mm f/1.4.
  5. Wide angles are also handy in tight areas, like small rooms, Cars, Caves, ect. They can give volume to the small area. wide angles have the potential to drastically change your Photograph.
  6. Standard lenses tend to range from about 35mm up to around 85mm. Lenses in the standard zoom range will cover moderate wide angles- typically 24mm to 35mm, to moderate telephoto lengths- around 70mm and up to about 105mm.
  7.  18-55mm, 18-135mm, 24-105mm, 24-70mm, and others are popular standard zooms.
  8. Prime lenses are lenses that are just one focal length. Back in the good ol’ days of film, the most popular standard lens was a 50mm. The most popular seems to be various flavors of 70-300mm or 70-200mm.
  9. Telephoto lenses compress distance, making everything appear closer, as opposed to wide angles which distort perspective and make things look further away. This can be useful for landscapes when you want the sun or moon to appear large in comparison to other objects in the image.
  10. A “fast” lens is usually one that has an aperture of f/4, f/2.8 or larger. If sports is one of your primary subjects, a telephoto zoom such as a 70-200 f/2.8 is an excellent choice. If you really want to shoot like the pros, you’ll want a 300mm f/4, or 300mm f/2.8 or 400mm f/2.8. These lenses are great for getting you closer to the action, but you need to be sure your shutter speed is fast enough. Too slow a shutter speed will result in motion blur. Typically, AT LEAST 1/500 to 1/1000 shutter speed is the minimum. Using these longer lenses can be challenging to track movement, so it becomes much easier if the subject is coming directly at you, rather than trying to track movement parallel to the camera.
  11. Telephoto zooms allow one to stand back a little when the subject isn’t quite as approachable, or when your subject might be feeling overwhelmed by the presence of the camera. This makes telephoto zooms extremely useful for portraiture, but keep in mind Capa’s words, as it is easy to get lazy and let the lens do the work for you.
  12. Telephoto lenses are also excellent for sports, nature, and wildlife, where it can be difficult to get close. Sports, however, presents its own set of challenges. To be able to stop action without blurring, you need to use a fast shutter speed.
  13. Typically, faster telephoto lenses are required. Faster telephoto lenses have larger maximum apertures.
  14. All DSLR systems offer a dizzying selection of lenses for their cameras.
  15. First off, and easiest to figure out is, “What do you want to shoot?” It could be sports, wildlife, birds, landscapes, architecture, portraits, or any number of other subjects.
  16. I began to discover the magic of wide angles. Wide angles give a wide expansive view, and when used correctly, can wrap you in the scene. My favorite lenses for landscape work tend to be in the ranges from 14mm f/2.8, 16-35 f/2.8, and 24mm f/1.4.
  17. Most people tend to feel that zooms offer more bang for the buck these days, while a prime forces you to think more about composition and point of view, simply because it can’t zoom.
  18. Bump up the ISO and find out what is the safest you can go, with not much noise.. as mentioned in this article shoot at least 1/500sec else there will be motion blur.
  19. To be able to stop action without blurring, you need to use a fast shutter speed. Typically, faster telephoto lenses are required. Faster telephoto lenses have larger maximum apertures.
  20. To end this all you have to find out is the numbers by which the camera is set in order to get a good side profile and the numbers correct such as the Aperture, ISO, S, and Att.